Learn · Roth Conversion

Roth conversions, explained

A complete, plain-English guide to converting a traditional IRA or 401(k) to a Roth: the tax it creates, the rules that govern it, and the strategies high earners use to convert without handing the IRS six figures.

Updated June 2026 · 2026 tax year
Educational — not tax advice
The short version

A Roth conversion moves money from a pre-tax account (traditional IRA, 401(k), SEP, SIMPLE) into a Roth. The amount you convert is added to your ordinary income for that year, so you pay tax now — but the money then grows tax-free, comes out tax-free in retirement, and is never subject to required minimum distributions. Whether it pays off comes down to one question: is your tax rate likely to be lower now than when you would otherwise withdraw? For high earners, the up-front tax bill is the obstacle — which is why this site focuses on deduction-offset strategies that absorb it.

How a Roth conversion works

A conversion is simply a transfer: pre-tax retirement dollars move into a Roth account. Because pre-tax dollars were never taxed on the way in, the IRS treats the converted amount as ordinary income in the year of the conversion. You can convert any amount, in any year — there is no income limit and no annual cap on conversions (unlike contributions).

Three things change once the money is inside the Roth: it grows tax-free, qualified withdrawals are tax-free, and there are no required minimum distributions during the original owner's lifetime. That combination is what makes the Roth valuable — you trade a known tax bill today for decades of untaxed growth.

Conversions are permanent. Since the 2018 tax law, you can no longer "recharacterize" (undo) a Roth conversion. Once you convert, the tax is owed for that year — which is why sizing the conversion correctly, before year-end, matters so much.

The tax a conversion creates

The converted amount stacks on top of your other income and is taxed at your marginal federal rate (plus state). A large lump-sum conversion can push you through several brackets at once. For a household already in the 32–37% federal range, converting $500,000 can mean a federal tax bill well into the six figures in a single year, before state tax.

Two details matter for high earners: the conversion itself is not subject to the 3.8% Net Investment Income Tax, but the higher income can pull your other investment income into NIIT — and a conversion at 63 or older can raise the income that sets your Medicare IRMAA surcharge two years later. The calculator models all of this.

When converting makes sense (and when it doesn't)

The core trade is rate-now versus rate-later. Conversions tend to favor you when:

It works against you if you will be in a much lower bracket later, if you must raid the account to pay the tax, or if a large conversion triggers IRMAA or other phase-outs that outweigh the benefit. There is rarely a single right answer — it is a math problem specific to your numbers.

The two five-year rules

People conflate these constantly; they are separate.

For someone over 59½ with an established Roth, neither is usually a problem. For early converters, the clocks are worth planning around.

The pro-rata rule

If you hold any pre-tax money across all your traditional, SEP, and SIMPLE IRAs, the IRS won't let you cherry-pick only after-tax dollars to convert. Every conversion is treated as a proportional blend of pre-tax and after-tax money across those accounts. This is the rule that trips up "backdoor Roth" attempts when there's a large pre-tax IRA in the background. (401(k) balances are generally excluded from the calculation while they remain in the plan.)

Backdoor & mega-backdoor Roth

Two conversion-adjacent moves let high earners fund a Roth even above the income limits:

We cover both in depth in the advanced strategies guide.

Partial conversions & bracket-filling

You don't have to convert everything at once. "Bracket-filling" means converting just enough each year to reach the top of a target bracket without spilling into the next — spreading a large balance over several low-income years to keep the blended rate down. Done in early-retirement gap years, this is often the most efficient route. The trade-off: the longer you wait, the more the un-converted balance grows (and gets taxed later). The calculator's "spread over time" line lets you test this.

The high-earner problem — and how offsets solve it

For high earners, the long-term Roth benefit is clear; the obstacle is the six-figure tax bill today. The strategies this site documents attack that bill directly by generating deductions in the same year you convert, so the conversion income is partly or fully absorbed:

Both are educational illustrations of how the code works, not recommendations — and both carry real investment risk. Always model them with your CPA.

2026 figures at a glance

Item2026
IRA contribution limit (under 50)$7,500
IRA catch-up (50+)+$1,100
401(k) employee deferral$24,500
401(k) catch-up (50+ / ages 60–63)+$8,000 / +$11,250
Overall 401(k) addition limit (§415(c))$72,000
Roth IRA income phase-out (MFJ)$242,000–$252,000
Conversion income limitNone

Limits are inflation-adjusted annually — confirm the current year's figures with the IRS or your CPA before acting.

Frequently asked questions

No. Anyone with a traditional IRA or eligible plan balance can convert, regardless of income. The income limits apply only to direct Roth IRA contributions, not conversions.
No. Recharacterization of conversions was eliminated by the 2017 tax law, effective 2018. Once you convert, the tax is owed for that year, so size the conversion carefully before year-end.
It can. Higher income from a conversion can raise the IRMAA surcharge on Medicare Part B and D — but on a roughly two-year lag, and only if you are near Medicare age. Roth withdrawals later do not count toward that income.
No. Roth IRAs have no required minimum distributions during the original owner's lifetime. Roth 401(k)s also no longer require RMDs starting in 2024. This is a key reason conversions can shrink a future tax problem.
Generally it is better to pay from outside funds so the full balance keeps compounding tax-free. Paying the tax from the account leaves less working for you — and if you are under 59½, the withheld amount can itself trigger the 10% penalty.